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1150 High Street, Armadale, 9509 2710
My score: 4/5
We were sitting by the kitchen hatch where I could see the action. I loved watching the chefs folding omelettes, piling burgers and scattering chia seeds with that careful orders-are-rolling-in combination of speed and delicacy. But it was a bit noisy for mum and dad so I thought I’d check upstairs. And that’s where I found one of the best outdoor rooms in Melbourne, a rooftop deck with cushioned benches and high walls, a sun trap with umbrellas, a space that’s crying out for sunset drinks and cheese platters (stand by for the liquor license – exactly such plans are afoot).
Moby 3143 is a month-old cafe owned by chef Stephen Svensen (ex-Barry in Northcote) and his best mate’s sister Christina Higgins, a front-of-house specialist who’s done a stint with Ottolenghi in London. You don’t get away with shabby chic in Armadale: they’ve gutted the corner premises that used to house Woodstock, rethought it in teal, pink and grey and given a compact space identity over four distinct zones: the bustling main dining room with its attractive arched windows (one of them dispensing coffee to go), a spacious and sheltered pavement area, a mezzanine that works well for meetings, and that appealing hidden roof deck.
The cafe is named after the owner’s recently deceased rescue dog, a husky German shepherd cross who sounds like a real darling. Moby’s spirit of welcome extends to 3143’s pups, who are treated to pigs’ ears on the pavement while their owners fuel on batch brew coffee and kicking harissa-spiced beans.
If you ate at Barry, you’ll recognise Svensen’s honest cheffy approach to cafe food. Just about everything is made from scratch, there’s evident care in the sourcing, and flagrant use of microherbs is banned. Most of the menu is gluten free, which flies well around here, and there’s a canny balance of stuff like kimchi-laden fried chicken and health-pushing ancient grain bircher.
The bircher is a cinnamon-scented mix of rolled oats, spelt and rye, and millet and chia all soaked in orange and apple juice. So far so wholesome but it’s the toppings that catch the eye: blood orange both fresh and dried, a buttery coconut crumble and glistening, gorgeous strawberry pearls. Even more hearty is the excellent eggs benedict, which plays like a roast dinner for breakfast. Grated potato and caramelised onion are turned into a crisp brick of dark golden happiness. The hollandaise is made with nutty ghee instead of butter. The ham is slow-braised and scattered with pork crackling powder. There’s julienned apple for freshness and crunch. It’s epic and you’ll probably forget about lunch if you’re having this for breakfast.
The hotcake is oven-baked to order and whipped egg whites through the mixture ensure it’s impressively fluffy. Blueberries appear in three guises: fresh, as a jammy drizzle and as berry leather, dark and tacky shards that are made here in the dehydrator.
Service is smiley and willing. Our table move was no problem for the staff and the waiter passed my dad’s strict test. He always orders a second coffee to come with his breakfast, then assumes it will be forgotten. He added a half-star to my score when it arrived without a reminder. I wasn’t surprised: Moby is motoring and it’s set to rock 3143 all summer.
See their website.
More Outdoor Surprises:
Cafe Bü, corner Canning and Pigdon Streets, Carlton North, 0401 808 213.
Colourful umbrellas peep from the rooftop at this casual ex-milk bar cafe. Grab a rooibos iced tea and a packet of cards and while away a lazy hour.
Garden State Hotel, 101 Flinders Lane, Melbourne, 8396 5777.
It can be hard to tell whether you’re outside or inside at this amazing four-level city pub. Contemplate the greenery over blackened chicken-stuffed steamed buns to share.
Madame Brussels, Level 3, 57-59 Bourke Street, Melbourne, 9662 2775.
The deliciously naughty rooftop bar has an upper terrace that is perfect for end-of-year parties. Book a soiree! Otherwise, just pop up for a Double D Cup punch and let wickedness follow.
Upside, Level 2, 127 Brunswick Street, Fitzroy, 9417 4127.
Eat Japanese at Ichi Ni Nana (ground floor) or order hawker snacks from Village People (1st floor) to eat while you do some star-spotting and cocktail sipping at Upside. The good times keep rolling every day of the holidays.
First published in The Age, 4th December 2016
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