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Radio Mexico: 11-13 Carlisle Street, St Kilda, 9534 9990
My score: 4/5
Most of the cuisines that sweep through Melbourne emerge from waves of immigration. But Mexican? No, hombre. The Mexican munching movement must be based on waves of tequila but when the result is as winning as Radio Mexico I’m all for it. Next door to St Kilda’s ever-sailing Galleon cafe and with some of the same owners, Radio Mexico doesn’t rope itself to the mast of Mexican authenticity but the flavours are true, the menu is fun and varied and the price is nice. However, beware: no bookings!
Once you’re in, what a sweet place. The main dining room is dim but colourful with atmosphere-boosting trinkets, vintage radios and cacti. A grill cubicle with taco-truck styling links the dining room to the deck. This outdoor room is reasonably sheltered and a fireplace and blankets increase the cosy quotient but, in winter, you really do want to be indoors. The restaurant hit the ground sprinting when it opened in April. Steady and experienced hands at the helm ensure the ride is pretty smooth, and service is attentive and friendly. The waiters’ deeper understanding of all menu items will hopefully come with time.
The food is fresh and tasty. I liked the warming, spicy roast tomato and chicken soup strewn with shredded tortilla chips, guacamole and fresh white cheese. The tiny dish of pickled jalapenos, carrot and onion was a highlight – it’s a great nibble with a cleansing ale but also a neat palate-sharpening condiment throughout the meal. Along similar lines is the jicama salad: the crisp root vegetable is cut into batons and tossed with salt, chilli and lime. I loved the slow-cooked lamb taco scattered with purple cabbage and zesty salsa, and the hanger steak taco smothered with housemade soured and spiced cream. My favourite dish was a larger sharing plate, camarones con pozole, a prawn and corn stew. Pozole is made with dried white corn that’s softened until it has a firm, almost dumpling-like texture, all the better for absorbing the butter and smoky chipotle chillis rounding out the dish.
The short dessert list includes a coconut icecream sundae layered with cajeta, the Mexican goat’s milk version of dulce de leche (cooked, sweetened milk), made on-site over five hours of gentle, loving stirring. Otherwise, there’s thick, chilli-spiked hot chocolate served in a tactile glazed cup. It’s spicy and satisfying and yet one more reason that tuning into Radio Mexico is rewarding.
See their website.
More modern Mexican:
Mamasita, 1/11 Collins Street, Melbourne, 9650 3821
The joint that kicked off Melbourne’s Mexico revolution is still pumping and has just started opening for Saturday lunch. Stuck late in the city? There are tacos till 2am on Friday and Saturday night.
Touche Hombre, Corner Lonsdale Street and Tattersalls Lane, Melbourne, 9663 0811
There’s no pretension to authenticity here but there is a pumping atmosphere and a brash menu of DIY tacos.
Chingon Tacos, 413 Swan Street, Richmond, 9429 5695
Fresh Mexican street food is the concept here and at three tacos for $15 it’s street prices too. Consider the orange and honey charcoal chicken taco.
First published in The Age, July 22, 2012
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