Restaurant Reviews | Page 3 of 40 | Dani Valent

Restaurant Reviews

We’ve all got to eat so it might as well be good! I’ve been a restaurant critic for almost 20 years, and have been writing a weekly restaurant column in Melbourne’s Sunday Age since 2006.

My approach is to always take a restaurant on its own terms: there’s no point slamming a burger joint because it doesn’t have white tablecloths. I try to be constructive in my criticism and I’ve always got the diner in mind: there are many places you could choose to go. Why should it be here?

Elwood Bathers set to become a favourite seaside eatery

One of Melbourne's most experienced restaurant managers, Joel Penno, previously at Stokehouse and Kisume, has opened his first venue, and it's been instantly, fiercely embraced by its community. Elwood Bathers is right on the beach, in the premises that was Sails by the Bay for more than two decades.

Henry Sugar

There's an important metric of success for a neighbourhood wine bar. If visitors from afar fantasise about moving within walking distance, then it's on song. Henry Sugar sails through the "real estate dreams" test: it welcomes and satisfies in such a way that you want to return, preferably on foot.

Bar Carolina

Let's start with the salt dispensers, because they say as much about Bar Carolina as the silky pappardelle tangled with rabbit ragu, the gay divorcees gossiping over prosecco, even the designer dogs in the rear outdoor nook helping their owners decide between wood-roasted eye fillet and lamb rump with sweetbreads.

© Dani Valent 2019