Eater – Page 6 – Dani Valent


We’ve all got to eat so it might as well be good! I’ve been a restaurant critic for almost 20 years, and have been writing a weekly restaurant column in Melbourne’s Sunday Age since 2006.

My approach is to always take a restaurant on its own terms: there’s no point slamming a burger joint because it doesn’t have white tablecloths. I try to be constructive in my criticism and I’ve always got the diner in mind: there are many places you could choose to go. Why should it be here?


Henry Sugar

There's an important metric of success for a neighbourhood wine bar. If visitors from afar fantasise about moving within walking distance, then it's on song. Henry Sugar sails through the "real estate dreams" test: it welcomes and satisfies in such a way that you want to return, preferably on foot.

© Dani Valent 2021