1. Coat a large, heavy-based frypan with a little olive oil and heat on medium. It’s great if your pan can hold the tomatoes in one layer. Add the tomatoes and a large pinch of salt and cook gently, shaking the pan occasionally. (You can get the tomatoes going then hang out the beach towels or make a round of G&Ts, returning to jostle the pan.)
2. When the tomatoes have started to collapse, add a little more olive oil, the sugar, vinegar and a few tablespoons of water. At this point, you could cover the pan – use a chopping board if there’s no lid – and turn it down low to sweat a little more.
3. Serve tomatoes when you like the look of them, seasoned with salt and pepper to taste and swirled with spaghetti. Your pan will have lots of sweet tomato juices: make sure everyone gets some of those.