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Quinces on ABC Afternoons + Pot-roasted Spiced Quinces recipe

Quinces are just coming into season now: they are strange, hard, knobbly, furry fruits and rather unappealing at first glance. They do have a beautiful perfume though – and they’re cheap, around $3 a kilo. To me, they smell pink, which might sound strange, but makes more sense when they are cooked, because they turn from a pale yellowy green to a deep, glossy ruby. It’s the kind of alchemic kitchen magic that can make you fall in love with a fruit, and I am definitely in love with quinces.

Jessi Singh

“Jessi loves to feed people and he can do it anywhere,” says his wife Jennifer. He did it as a boy in his Punjab village, getting up at 4am to water the fields, milk the buffalo and make yoghurt lassi for breakfast before heading to school. He did it in Jennifer’s miniature apartment in San Francisco. “He invited people over, I told him it was impossible, but amazing food kept appearing from my tiny kitchen,” she says. Even today, he’s known for rummaging in friends’ fridges and creating feasts, turning his hosts into honoured guests in their own homes. He’s tapping into a Sikh sense of hospitality. “It’s a natural part of my culture,” he says. “Everyone must sit down and eat together and the guest is considered God.” It also, simply, makes him feel good. “After a long day in the kitchen, cooking is a therapy for me,” he says. “It gives me huge satisfaction to know I made my meal from scratch.”

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